Short Sleeve Plaid Button Up


The chances of me wearing this shirt very much in real life are sadly, slim. Not that I don't like it or it didn't turn out, but that a short sleeve button up in wintry colors just doesn't fit my typical wardrobe in any season. Too cold in the winter, and wintry plaid doesn't always get right in warmer months. But maybe I'll surprise myself!
The fabric was leftover from my TAL kaftan and this was about as much as I could get out of it. Didn't pattern match the side seams, and I can't remember if I forgot, or if I didn't have enough fabric to. We'll go with the latter! I didn't make a great effort to line things up elsewhere...
Was heavily inspired by ..... Mille.... again.....
Started with the Thea Boho Sleeve Button up by Liberty. Could just as easily have started with the Archer but having the short sleeve option as a starting point was quite nice! And why not branch out.
Pattern
Liberty Thea Boho Sleeve Shirt, paper copy from Lakes Makerie
Measurements
Height: 5'1'
Bust: 34" (86.5cm)
Waist: 26" (66cm)
Hips: 34" (91.5)
Size
Straight Size 12
Size 12 is 87/67/92cms which was pretty close to my measurements. It's pretty big so next time I would size down.
Buttons
Imitation Pearl in smoke, 16l and 18l from Wawak
Fabric
Cotton Plaid shirting from Lakes Makerie. I think it was deadstock designer. Sold out now.
Fit Adjustments
Shortened body
Style Adjustments
Short sleeve version but added a single 2X ruffle to the hem.
Added a 2X ruffle to the button band that continues around the neckline. Kept the collar stand, omitted the collar for this.
Very simplified front/neckline ruffle OOO:
- Finish what will be the visible edge of the front/neck ruffle with a narrow hem.
- Finish left button band, leave right unfinished.
- Sew outer collar stand to neckline (collar stand should overhang left CF by seam allowance amount)
- Gather ruffle piece
- Pin ruffle to right button band and collar stand
- Pin inner collar stand to top of ruffle, fold bottom SA up where it will meet the right button band.
- Pin the right button band facing on top of ruffle, it should overlap the folded seam allowance of the collar stand.
- Sew up right button band/around collar .
- Turn collar stand and button band facing to inside, trim/grade/notch as necessary and press.
- Fold right front button band facing seam allowance under and stitch down from right side.
- Fold collar seam allowance under, press, stitch in the ditch to secure.
Sleeve Ruffle OOO
- Sew short ends of ruffles together.
- Finish what will be the visible edge with a narrow hem.
- Gather raw edge of ruffle and pin to sleeve (underarm seam of sleeve should be already sewn)
- Sew ruffle to sleeve and finish seam as desired.
- Press SA toward sleeve
- You may want to do some small hand sewn stitches to baste the seam allowance to the sleeve to keep the ruffle from flipping down/out.
Next time
I'll do a narrow shoulder adjustment. I could also perhaps do with sizing down, there's quite a bit of room throughout the body and under the arms.
I will also straighten the edge of the left front button band. I kept it rounded to match the right this time but a square edge will help the ruffle sit more nicely.