Abby

Dawn Shorts and Jeans



Ope gotta snip off that little thread on the belt loop!

Pants fitting is usually a literal pain in the butt for me. Even solidly drafted patterns only work for me after what feels like a million little fitting adjustments. (I lean over-fitter, but why make something that only fits as good as RTW?)

The thought of having to spend my precious sewing time toiling something that still!!!!!! gives me a terrible kangaroo pocket after a week of fitting work makes me ok with having only 2 pairs of pants I like and just dealing with it. And I'm not (that) bad at fitting. It's the pants. Someday I'll just make myself a sloper and draft all my pants myself.

I had some denim leftover from my Blanca Flight Suit that needed to be Dawn Shorts. I mentally cleared my sewing schedule to prepare for the Week of Tweak on this pair of shorts that I didn't even really plan! I just have to use up this nice extra fabric so I don't feel guilty! But a pair of denim shorts will always get worn so I can't be too grumbly about it.

Made up a quick muslin and — I didn't really need any adjustments?!?! The front crotch fit perfectly which has literally never, not once happened to me. EVER. The back was a little wedgie but nothing a classic butt re-angle/scoop adjustment couldn't fix in one try.

Here they are after that one little adjustment! I wore them constantly this summer. Maybe a veryyyy slight wedgie still but I can deal with it.

Made a full length pair too just because I knew I'd be able to pretty much skip right to the fun part!

These are VERY high-waisted. They reach the bottom of my rib cage when I stand and almost reach my underbust when seated (OPE!) It's not uncomfortable, but the waist area slightly collapses/wrinkles as it tries to settle and find my natural waist, so I'll probably shorten the rise next time by an inch or so or more.


Pattern: Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen
Size: Straight size 4 (matched my measurements exactly)

FIT ADJUSTMENTS

Back Crotch Angle + Length
Angled down and scooped out back crotch curve.
After scooping out the butt, you usually have to remove length at the top of the CB seam to prevent pooling at the small of the back and the side seam swinging forward. I removed quite a bit, probably over an inch. If you take a lot of length out of your CB seam here, you might want to balance it out by shaving some off the yoke so it looks balanced.

This also usually results in having to move the pocket pieces down. Sometimes by as much as an inch.

Small Sway Back
Itty bit out of the cb yoke on the pants.

Full Pocket Facing
CCP pants have spoiled me with the full pocket facing/stay situation. Dawn pockets aren't full-width like this, and I just made the pattern as-is for the shorts. MISTAKE! That full front facing makes for a much more comfortable pocket, so I made this adjustment for the pants.

Shorts Supplies
Fabric: Blackbird Denim
Thread: Mara Topstitching Thread in 448
Button: Citron Jeans
Zipper: Stash, probably Wawak

Wide Leg Jean Supplies
Fabric: Medium Wash 13 oz Japanese Denim from Blackbird
Button: Wawak
Zip: Stash, probably Wawak
Thread: Mara 70 448

Call me if you want to jump ship on pants patterns and take a sloper class together though because I'll probably still do that.

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