I have been itching to make The Assembly Line Kaftan Dress since it was released this summer! Waited around for the right fabric and finally decided to go for a more wintry version with this cotton plaid from Lakes Makerie. (Picked up the pattern there too)

The pleat front and raglan sleeves (perhaps especially the raglan sleeves) are what did me in for this pattern. I only hate on drop sleeves and profess my preferrential love of raglans in every other post, so you might be sick of hearing about drop sleeve peeves — but I can't stop, they are just incorrect.

Anyway — pair the glorious gorgeous raglan detail with the perfect pleat and you could convince me I designed this pattern myself and just forgot.

My bust measurement correlated to a size Small, but based on the finished measurements I made an XSmall in the bust area and graded to a S from below the underarm. I didn't muslin so the grading out was mostly to ensure flowyness. Would have been ok as an XSmall all the way through I think too

I also think a straight size Small would have worked for me. The armhole sits nice and close to the body which would probably help the size up to not look sloppy.

The included seam allowances are 1cm. Weird, but manageable. Easy to add more if desired.

The instructions for the cute pleat front were awful. (Unless I'm just stupid, but I'm not) I didn't like them at all and would like to find another way. On this version, I folded the CF seam allowance down, shaped the pleat from the right side so it looked good and measured correctly, lined up all the layers, topstitched everything down, then handstitched one of the layers down that was missed in the topstitching. Worked fine.

It looks like the "sleeve cap" is too short — the plaid line at the bicep line is not level and there is pulling/wrinkles down the sleeve (as you can see) I don't have as much experience adjusting raglan sleeves as I do set ins, so it might just be the way all raglan sleeves are and I'm only noticing it because of the plaid pattern? Or I made a size too small? Anyway, I might try and fix it on the next one.

Handstitched down the hems, side vents, and neckline facings for a clean finish

Even with the little bits of weirdness, I love this pattern and will definitely be making more for all seasons!